Grate & Grill
Head to head

Char-Griller vs Oklahoma Joe's

Budget cooking area or heavier steel — the two offsets every value shopper cross-shops, on the numbers. Which one is the smarter buy, and who should pick which.

By Stephen V.Last updated Our methodology

Quick answer

The Char-Griller Competition Pro gives the most cooking area for the least money, but thinner steel that needs a gasket kit and a baffle to cook evenly. The Oklahoma Joe’s Highland Reverse Flow costs more for heavier steel and reverse-flow baffles that hold temperature better out of the box. Buy the Char-Griller to tinker and save, the Oklahoma Joe to cook evenly with less fuss.

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Spec
Char-Griller Competition Pro Offset Smoker
Char-Griller Competition Pro Offset Smoker
Oklahoma Joe's Highland Reverse Flow Offset Smoker
Oklahoma Joe's Highland Reverse Flow Offset Smoker
Primary cooking area719 sq in619 sq in
Total cooking area1,012 sq in1,093 sq in
SteelHeavy-gauge (unspecified ga)Heavy-gauge, high-temp finish
ConfigurationTraditional offsetReverse-flow (convertible)
Price
$729.00 · View on Amazon

Price as of September 6, 2026. #ad How we’re funded

The short version

These are the two offsets nearly every value shopper cross-shops, and they’re a genuinely close call because they optimize for opposite things at a similar price. The Char-Griller Competition Prois a traditional offset that wins on raw cooking area per dollar — it hands you 1,012 square inches of cast-iron grate for less than the Oklahoma Joe, and asks that you seal it and add a baffle to make it cook evenly. The Oklahoma Joe’s Highland Reverse Flowis the more finished cooker: heavier-feeling steel, reverse-flow baffles that even out the heat from the factory, and a convertible layout, for a price that’s still comfortably in budget territory. One rewards a tinkerer; the other rewards someone who’d rather just cook. Neither is a bad buy, and both live in our best offsets under $1,000 roundup.

Steel and heat retention

This is the real difference, and it’s the one that shapes every cook. Both list a “heavy-gauge” chamber, but in practice the Highland carries more mass and a high-temp finish, while the Char-Griller runs thinner metal that radiates heat into the yard faster. More mass is more stability: a heavier chamber soaks up heat and rides out the dips every time you open the lid or feed the firebox, so it holds a steadier temperature with less fiddling. The Char-Griller’s thinner steel swings more, especially in wind and cold, and burns through fuel a little faster. That doesn’t make it a bad smoker — it makes it a smoker that asks more of the cook, and that responds well to the cheap fixes below. If you want the steadiest temperature in this pair straight out of the box, the Highland is it. If you’re happy to manage a livelier fire in exchange for saving money and gaining grate, the Char-Griller earns its place.

Cooking area and shape

The numbers cross over in an interesting way. The Char-Griller has the larger primarygrate at 719 square inches to the Highland’s 619, so for a single layer of food over the main cooking surface it actually gives you more room. The Highland edges ahead on totalarea, 1,093 to 1,012 square inches, once you count its warming rack. In real terms both are true mid-to-large offsets: either one handles two full briskets or a big load of ribs, and the difference between them is smaller than the difference a gasket kit makes to how evenly that area cooks. The Char-Griller’s cast-iron grates hold sear heat well if you ever grill over the firebox; the Highland’s reverse-flow plates give up a little primary area to the baffle system in exchange for evening out the heat across what’s left. Judge these two on how evenly they use their area, not on the headline square inches — on that score they’re close enough to call a draw.

Grates, grilling and everyday use

Both pits wear cast-iron grates, which hold and radiate sear heat well and lay down proper grill marks that thin plated steel can’t — a real advantage if you cook direct over the firebox. Cast iron does ask for a little upkeep: keep it oiled or it will surface-rust, especially on the Char-Griller’s thinner body that sheds heat and invites condensation. On everyday flexibility the two differ in character more than capability. The Char-Griller’s traditional firebox is easy to use as a direct grilling zone, so it doubles as a big charcoal grill more naturally; the Highland’s reverse-flow plates are tuned for even low-and-slow smoking, though its convertible layout lets you pull the baffles and run it traditional when you want to grill. Fuel use tracks the steel: the Highland’s greater mass holds heat longer between splits, so over an all-day cook you feed it a touch less often than the lighter Char-Griller, which sheds heat faster and asks for wood on a shorter cadence — more so in wind and cold. Neither is a fuel hog once sealed, but the heavier pit is the more relaxed one to tend.

Reverse-flow versus traditional layout

This is the split that decides how forgiving each pit is. The Char-Griller is a traditional offset: heat drafts from the firebox straight across the food and out a chimney at the far end, which always runs hotter near the firebox until you learn to work the gradient — rotating meat, or adding a baffle to even it out. The Highland ships as a reverse-flowpit: baffle plates route the heat down the length of the chamber and back before it exits near the firebox end, which evens out that hot spot from the factory and forgives a newer offset cook. Better still, the Highland is convertible — pull the plates and move the stack and it runs traditional too, so you can learn on the forgiving setup and experiment later without buying a second smoker. The Char-Griller only runs traditional, which is simpler and great for grilling over the firebox, but you’re managing the hot end yourself. We break the whole trade down in reverse-flow versus traditional offsets.

The mods each one needs

Both benefit from the same first mod, and the Char-Griller needs it more. A gasket kit(about $20) seals the lid and firebox door, which on any budget offset leak a little out of the box — and those leaks, not the steel alone, cause most of the temperature swings people complain about. On the Char-Griller, plan for the gasket kit and a baffle or set of tuning platesto even out the traditional layout’s hot end; together they turn a lively, one-hot-spot pit into one you can confidently run two racks on. The Highland needs less: the reverse-flow baffles already even the heat, so most owners are happy with just the gasket kit. That’s the tinker-versus-turnkey trade in a nutshell — the Char-Griller has a huge aftermarket and rewards the work, while the Highland does more of that work for you at the factory. Either way, a good probe thermometer matters more than any mod, because the dome gauge on either lid reads the wrong place and is often off by a wide margin.

Price and value

On sticker price the Char-Griller is the cheaper of the two, and it’s the most cooking area per dollar of any full-size offset we rank — that’s its whole pitch. But value isn’t only the sticker. Budget in the gasket kit and baffle it wants, and the gap to the Highland narrows; the Highland arrives closer to ready, so you spend less on parts and less of your first few cooks fighting the pit. Think of it as paying either in dollars or in tinkering. If your budget is tight and you enjoy modifying gear, the Char-Griller stretches your money furthest. If you’d rather put the difference toward a thermometer and start cooking evenly on day one, the Highland is the better value even though it costs more up front. Both sit well under a grand, so this isn’t a stretch-versus-save decision so much as a how-do-you-want-to-spend decision.

There’s a longevity angle too. Thinner steel doesn’t just swing temperature; over years it’s more prone to warping and rust-through if the pit lives uncovered, so the Char-Griller rewards a cover and a little maintenance more than the heavier Highland does. Neither is a lifetime custom pit, but the Highland’s extra mass and high-temp finish give it a bit more margin against hard weather and neglect. Factor that in if the smoker will sit outside year-round: the cheaper sticker can cost a little back in upkeep and an earlier replacement, while the pricier pit holds its own longer. It’s the same buy-cheap-or-buy-once calculus that runs through the whole category, and it’s worth weighing against how long you actually plan to keep the smoker.

Which should you buy?

Buy the Char-Griller Competition Proif you want the most grate for the least money, you don’t mind sealing and baffling it, and you like the idea of a huge mod aftermarket to make the pit your own. Buy the Oklahoma Joe’s Highland Reverse Flowif you want the more forgiving, more finished cooker — heavier steel, reverse-flow heat, and a convertible layout — and you’d rather cook evenly with less fuss. For most upgraders we lean Highland, because evenness is forgiveness and the thermometer-and-gasket money is better spent than fighting a hot end; that’s why it’s our overall pick in the offset smokers roundup. If you’re drawn to the Highland but want to know whether to size up to heavier steel still, read Highland vs Longhorn next, and see where both of these land against the rest of the field under a grand in our best offsets under $1,000 guide.

Frequently asked questions

Is Char-Griller or Oklahoma Joe's better?

It depends on how you like to spend. The Char-Griller Competition Pro gives you the most cooking area for the least money but runs thinner steel and needs a gasket kit and baffle to cook evenly. The Oklahoma Joe's Highland Reverse Flow costs more for heavier steel and reverse-flow baffles that even the heat from the factory. Choose Char-Griller to save and tinker, Oklahoma Joe to cook evenly with less fuss.

Does the Char-Griller Competition Pro have more cooking area than the Highland?

On the primary grate, yes — 719 square inches to the Highland's 619 — so for a single layer of food the Char-Griller gives you more room. The Highland edges ahead on total area, 1,093 to 1,012 square inches, once you count its warming rack. In practice both are true mid-to-large offsets that handle two briskets or a big load of ribs; the gap between them is smaller than the difference sealing and a baffle make to how evenly they cook.

Which one holds temperature better?

The Oklahoma Joe's Highland, for two reasons. It carries more thermal mass, so it rides out lid-opens and fuel feeds with less swing, and its reverse-flow baffles even the heat across the chamber from the factory. The Char-Griller's thinner steel swings more, especially in wind, and its traditional layout runs hot near the firebox until you add a baffle. Sealing either with a $20 gasket kit removes most of the remaining swing.

What mods does the Char-Griller Competition Pro need?

Two, mainly. A gasket kit (about $20) to seal the lid and firebox door, which stops the air leaks that cause most temperature swings, and a baffle or a set of tuning plates to even out the traditional layout's hot end near the firebox. The Char-Griller has a large aftermarket that makes both easy. A good probe thermometer isn't a mod but is the other must-buy, since the dome gauge reads the wrong place.

Are these offsets good for beginners?

Both can be, but the Highland is the more forgiving start because its reverse-flow baffles even out the hot spot that trips up new offset cooks. The Char-Griller rewards someone willing to seal it, add a baffle, and learn to work a traditional layout's hot end. Either way, buy a probe thermometer, add a gasket kit, and read our how-to-use guide before your first cook — fire management matters more than which pit you pick.

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